Easy way to clean your Inflatable boat

The inflatable boats are made out of rubber, which is then covered with hypalon fabric that has been made using DuPont Hypalon. This helps protect the rubber, preventing leaks, tears, rips, holes and sun damage. The boat should be cleaned after each use and prior to storing. Properly cleaning of your Inflatable Boat can help maintain the boat so it will last longer.

Things You'll Need

• Shop vacuum
• Bucket
• Fresh water
• 1/4 cup mild soap
• Soft cloth or sponge
• Soap Pad

Instructions

• Use a shop vacuum cleaner to vacuum up any dirt, dust and sand from the bottom of the Achilles Inflatable Boat.
• Fill a bucket with a gallon of cool fresh water and a 1/4 cup of a mild soap, such as liquid dish soap or liquid laundry detergent.
• Dip a soft cloth or sponge into the soapy water. Clean the rubber interior and exterior rubber surface of the Achilles Inflatable Boat.
• Rinse the soap from the boat with cool, fresh water.
• Rub a soap pad lightly over any remaining spots or stains to remove. Dampen a soft cloth with fresh water and wipe away any residue left from the soap pad.
• Allow the Achilles inflatable boat to air dry, in a shaded area. Do not leave the boat in direct sunlight.

Tips & Warnings

Never use solvents or chemicals, such as bleach or ammonia to clean an inflatable boat. It can weaken or damage the rubber.

Boat Review: 

Heavy Duty Mountaineer Boats

High quality and affordable, the Salter Mountaineer boat is available in 2 sizes: the 11ft 320, and 12ft 360. All have extra rub strips along the bottom for more protection while coming close to shore or when beaching the vessel. She can also is dressed with an aluminum floor for solid rides and inside stability. To add to the strength of the vessel we added 2 solid aluminum seats, We also increased the thickness and durability of the material to 1.2 of a millimeter. You can be rest assured you will get years of safe and reliable boating with the Mountaineer.

How to Repair a Rubber Boat

One of the biggest nightmare scenarios when operating a rubber boat, also called a dinghy or an inflatable, is getting a tear or puncture in the hull. This can easily happen when the dinghy hits a rusty nail on a dock, a piece of metal on another boat or when it runs over coral. The repercussion is that air immediately escapes from the body of the rubber boat and the boat will sink unless immediate action is taken. The boat must either be taken from the water right away, or you must perform a make-shift repair. It is prudent to carry a repair kit for your dinghy when it is in operation.

• Things You'll Need
• Cleaning solvent
• Rubber gloves
• Face mask
• Rubber patches (at least two)
• Rubber adhesive
• Accelerator
• Plastic or wooden stirring stick
• Plastic applicator
• Plastic bucket

Steps

• Take the rubber boat, or dinghy, out of the water immediately. Wash the area of the tear or puncture with soap and water or, even better, a solvent, such as Toluene. Shake out any water that may have entered into the pontoons or inflatable base. Let the boat dry out completely.
• Read the owner's manual of your boat to ensure you follow the manufacturer's directions with regards to repair materials. To complete the repair, you will need one or two rubber patches, depending on how severe the tear is, and an ultra-strong rubber adhesive for a marine climate. Your best bet is to buy a dinghy repair kit for the model of your rubber boat, which will include the aforementioned materials.
• Measure the size of the tear or puncture. Cut the rubber patches to an appropriate size that will more than cover the damaged area. The patches should overlap the damaged area by at least two inches on both sides of the tear or puncture.
• Put on a pair of latex gloves and a face mask.
• Mix the rubber adhesive and accelerator component together in a small plastic bucket with a wooden or plastic stirring stick. Follow the directions that accompany the adhesive and accelerator to ensure you have the appropriate relative adhesive and accelerator mixture.
• Smear the adhesive and accelerator mixture over one of the rubber patches and the damaged area of the hull with a plastic applicator. You can also use a toothbrush to rub in the adhesive, if the rubber has a rougher texture.
• Leave the mixture for at least fifteen minutes, until it has a gummy consistency. You can use the plastic applicator to test this by lightly touching the applicator to the mixture after the appropriate amount of time.
• Apply a second layer of the adhesive and accelerator mixture to the rubber patch with the plastic applicator. Leave the mixture again for another fifteen minutes and test again to see if it has a gummy consistency. If the mixture feels gummy, you may proceed with the repair.
• Slip the first patch in through the tear on the dinghy, adhesive side up. You will need to work against a flat surface. Pull the tear together over the patch and then firmly press the patch against the tear. If the tear or puncture is not large enough to do this, you will just need one external patch.
• Smear the second patch, if needed, with the adhesive and accelerator mixture. This patch will be placed directly on the outside of the hull.
• Stick the exterior patch over the tear on the dinghy and push it firmly against the tear, as well as against the internal patch, if applicable. Smooth out any wrinkles in the patch by spreading your gloved hand over the entire patched area.
• Let the adhesive mixture dry completely. This will take at least twenty four hours to cure, depending on the local temperature.
• Take the rubber boat out for a test drive in a body of water to ensure that the patch holds and the boat is no longer leaking air. 

Tips & Warnings

• Check if your rubber boat is still covered under its original warranty. In certain cases, if the boat has sprung a leak due to the rubber seams weakening and you are within the warranty period, you will be able to get the boat replaced or fixed at no cost to you. Severe damage to the hull because of faulty docks or the operator's errors are not usually covered under the warranty.
• The temperature you are working in to repair the boat should be between sixty four and seventy seven degrees Fahrenheit. Also, do not work in a humid or wet environment as this will negatively impact the drying adhesive mixture. 

Recommended boat of the day:

Heavy Duty Sport Inflatable Boats

High quality and affordable, the Salter Sport boat is available in 3 sizes, the 9ft 270, 11ft 320, and 12ft 360. All which have 5 extra rub strips along the bottom for more protection while coming close to shore or when beaching the vessel. She can also be dressed with aluminum, plywood or a high pressure air floor, All floors offer solid rides, great in and out stability. We also added solid light weight aluminum seats, We increased the thickness and durability of the boat material to 1.2 mm. You can be rest assured you will get years of safe and reliable boating with a Salter Sport Boat.

How to Repair Hypalon (Instruction)

Required Materials:

•                     Hypalon Tube Material

•                     Clifton Hypalon Adhesive

•                     Clifton Accelerator ((Recommended for air holding repairs and for attaching items subject to high stress. See Step 5)

•                     Pro Roller Hand Tool

•                     Toluene

•                     Stiff Bristle Brush – 4-ounce can has a brush in the lid.

•                     Chemical Resistant Gloves (i.e. Nitrile gloves)

•                     Eye Protection

•                     Pencil

•                     Fine Sandpaper (~ 180 grit) or Rasp

•                     Lint Free Towel

•                     Organic Fume Respirator

Safety First: Always work in a well ventilated area. Latex gloves, eye protection, and a respirator are highly recommended.

To ensure a quality repair, read all instructions before beginning.

Introduction:

No matter how careful you are when boating, tears, rips, and holes to your boat can occur. So knowing how to repair your boat, regardless of how big the job, is extremely valuable information to possess. This example is a 2" long cut, which requires a patch on the outside. A tear in the fabric of an air holding area 4-6"+ will require a patch to be placed on the inside and outside, also known as a "sandwich" patch. The sandwich patch will need to be treated like two separate repairs, allowing the first, the inside patch job, to cure before beginning the outer patch.

Step 1:

Cut the Hypalon Tube Material patch to extend 2" from all sides of the damaged area. This patch is approximately 4" x 6", for a 2" long cut. Make sure to round the corners of the patch. Square cornered patches are more likely to catch and peel than rounded ones.

Step 2:

Trace the area of the patch on the damaged surface with a pencil.

Step 3:

Using 180 grit sandpaper or a rasp, lightly buff the areas to be glued. This includes the damaged area of the boat as well as the backside of the patch. The fabric should look like a dulled version of the normal boat surface. DO NOT buff down to the point where the threads are visible. The goal here is to remove the surface glaze of the fabric, without removing excess coating.

Step 4:

Clean the buffed surfaces with a lint free towel and Toluene. The Toluene removes any oils, protectants, and sanding particles. It also prepares the surfaces to take the adhesive. Its use is important for achieving a good glue bond.

Step 5:

After the surfaces (damaged area on the boat and the underside of the patch) have thoroughly dried from the cleaning step, apply a very thin layer of Clifton Hypalon Adhesive to both surfaces, using a stiff bristle brush (the 4-ounce can of adhesive has a brush in the lid).

Clifton Hypalon Adhesive works well as a one-part glue. However, the addition of Clifton Accelerator to the adhesive significantly increases bond strength and chemical and heat resistance. It vulcanizes the rubber and speeds curing of the glue bond. This combination of Clifton Adhesive and Accelerator is what we use in our boat factory for producing NRS Hypalon boats. We strongly recommend the mixture for air holding repairs and for attaching anything that will be subjected to high load stress, such as d-rings, carry handles and foot cups.

Clifton Accelerator Mixture
Glue		Accelerator
1 Gallon/128 oz	=	0.80 oz

As you can see, very little Accelerator is needed and most of us only need to obtain an ounce of the Accelerator. We supply a precise measuring device and complete use instructions with the Accelerator. Mix only the amount that you will use within four hours. Carefully measure the volumes of Adhesive and Accelerator; using too much Accelerator will actually weaken the repair bond. Mix the two materials in a container that can be discarded later, like a clean metal food can.

Step 6: After the first layer of glue is just tacky apply another very thin second layer of adhesive to both surfaces. Test for "just tacky" with a gloved finger or by touching knuckles to the glued area. The glue should feel gummy, but should not stick to the gloved finger or knuckle. Do not use your bare fingertip to test for tackiness. Fingers contain oils that will be left behind and effect the bonding quality of a repair job.

Step 7:

Repeat Step 6, applying a third thin layer of adhesive to both surfaces.

Step 8:

Once the third coat is to the just tacky stage, the two surfaces can be joined. If the adhesive dries beyond this stage, you can reactivate the adhesive by wiping the surfaces to be bonded with a lint free cloth dampened with Toluene. Join the two surfaces together when the adhesive is tacky to the touch but does not transfer when tested with a knuckle. Be careful with this step. Make sure to place the patch in the correct area. Clifton Hypalon Adhesive is a contact cement, so once the surfaces have contacted they cannot be moved.

Step 9:

Once the two surfaces are pressed together, apply vigorous

pressure with the Pro Roller Hand Tool or roller rasp. Focus on the center of the patch and work outward. Roll every millimeter of patch in multiple directions. This step is important because it forces air bubbles out and helps the two pieces of material bond.

Step 10:

Use a lint free towel dampened with Toluene to wipe up any excess glue expelled from the patch edges while rolling.

Step 11:

Allow the patch to cure. Curing times vary due to the different temperatures, humidity, and whether Accelerator was used. The optimal repair environment of above 60°F and below 50% humidity, allows for a curing time of 8 - 12 hours. If at all possible avoid repairs when the humidity is above 70%. When having to make a repair when you’re on a trip, you may not have a choice of weather conditions and optimal cure time. In those cases avoid over-inflating a patched tube and you may need to redo the patch when you get home.

Maintenance:

Year round use of 303 Protectant is recommended for all boating gear. Inflatables can use a coat of 303 in between uses, before storage and while sitting in storage.

Pick of the Day:

Columbia Rivers Pontoon Boat

 

2 x 9 foot, 1200 Denier, 0.55mm PVC double coated streamlined pontoons with temperature resistance from -30°C to 70°C.

• 0.5mm PVC bladder with temperature resistance from -20°C to 40°C
• Carrying capacity 204.2 kg - 450 lb.
• Inflated size 108'' long x 63'' in wide
• Weight 45 lb.
• Luxury folding seat with foam padding.
• Set of dismountable galvanized oars with rubber handle sleeves, rubber oar stop and aluminum tube.
• 1000D x 1000D reinforced black nylon mesh basket in front.
• Powder coated aluminum frame.
• Adjustable 5 position leg rest.
• A set of 0.55 PVC waterproof multifunctional side bags.
• 8 galvanized quick snap rings.
• 8 painted strap tension clips.
• Hand pump.
• Repair kit
• Carry bag

How to clean inflatable boat

Cleaning inflatable boats is easy if you have the right tools and equipment and have a basic understanding of what you are doing.

Cleaning Hypalon and cleaning PVC or Polyurethane fabrics requires the same cleaners and techniques to get great results. Using the wrong inflatable boat cleaners or tools can have disastrous results and sometimes result in destroying the boat. Remember that inflatable boats are more delicate than fiberglass or aluminum boats and the same cleaners and protectors cannot be used on both.

Products never to use for cleaning your inflatable are:

• Solvents
• Mek
• Toluene
• Acetone
• Bleach
• Ammonia
• Highly alkaline cleaners (anything with a ph greater than 11.5)
• Abrasive scrub pads
• Steel wool

They will weaken, damage and discolor the fabric and attack the adhesives. Soaps and detergents leave a sticky residue (soap scum) which attracts and hold dirt. Soap scum is also food for mold and mildew.

If you maintain your boat properly and regularly from the day you buy it and invest in the best quality products, it should last you 20 to 30 years and look great during its lifetime, whether it’s made from Hypalon or PVC. You’ll get your investment in quality maintenance products back many times over when you go to sell or trade it. If not, you could be junking it in as little as 2 to 3 years and lose your boating investment. Besides, a clean, shiny inflatable boat is not only a beautiful thing, but a reflection of your personality.

Most inflatable boats and RIBs in North America are used as tenders and are subjected to some pretty tough conditions for these boats. It’s difficult to keep them high, dry and covered and still have them at your beck and call. The first step is to remove all the pollutants, surface damage, stains and scuffs and restore the tube and rigid hull to as close to new as possible. The next step is to apply the best protector that you can, to prevent damage from the elements. The amount and type of protector that you use will be dependant on the way that you plan to use your boat. This is much easier if you start with a new boat.

Deal of the day

Heavy Duty Sport Inflatable Boat

High quality and affordable, the Salter Inflatable Sport boat is available in 3 sizes, the 9ft 270, 11ft 320, and 12ft 360. All which have 5 extra rub strips along the bottom for more protection while coming close to shore or when beaching the vessel. She can also be dressed with aluminum, plywood or a high pressure air floor, All floors offer solid rides, great in and out stability. We also added solid lightweight aluminum seats, you can be rest assured you will get years of safe and reliable boating with a Salter Sport Boat.

Inflatable Boats or Aluminum Boats?

Which Kind of Boats Suit Me?

Confuse, confuse, confuse! I am confused! What kind of boats should I buy? Aluminum boats or inflatable boats? Which kind is better? Aluminum boats are good but inflatable boats seem nicer. Arghh... What should I do?

Well, if you are in such situation, the first thing you should do is to keep all your money/credit cards tight in you wallet, and then lock it in your drawer! Do not buy any boat in such confusing situation! Make yourself clear first before taking any action otherwise you will end up regretting on the improper boat you bought.

Choosing the boat kinds is just like choosing yourself a shirt. What will you consider when getting a shirt of your own? Yes, you will properly ask these questions.

·         How am I using it?

·         Where am I using it?

·         Who else is using it?

·         How much I afford to spend?

These 4 questions will directly guide you to what you need for sure. You have actually got all the answers within yourself. Calm down and start thinking now.

Basically, there are 2 kinds of boats, hard-sided boats and inflatable boats. Hard-sided boats are built with hard materials and are fixed in features such as aluminum boats. On the other hand, inflatable boats are built with fabrics that could be deflated and inflated at your fancy. Obviously, inflatable boats are more mobile in this case.

1)    How am I using my boats?

Every single boat is designed for different activities. Some are even specialized in one purpose. Thus, choosing the boat of your favor depends a lot on the activities you going to do.

Attention No.1: Loading Capacity Of The Boats

Make sure the boat you chose meet the requirement of your activities, especially the requirement of the loading capacity and the flexibility. A big and aluminum boat doesn't mean that it can carry more as the weight of the boat itself might just have consumed most of the loading capacity. However, the light weight inflatable boats have no such worries. The buoyancy tubes which are inflated with air provide a more efficient loading capacity.

Attention No.2: Multi-function Of The Boat

By the way, some inflatable boats are designed for multipurpose use. Activities such as paddling, sailing, rowing, fishing and cruising just best fitted on inflatable boats. Thus, it's important for you to make yourself clear, what activities you want to do with your boats. Compare with inflatable boats, aluminum boats do have some limitations, as they are not flexible enough to transform.

2)    Where am I using my boats?

Boating on a lake is totally different from boating on the sea. Beware of this statement.

Attention No.3: Materials Of The Boats

Some boats are not designed to cope with the strong UV and the salty water on the sea. Thus the materials of the boats are essential for where you going to use the boats. Sea eagle inflatable boats which built with 1000 denier reinforced material are simply the best whether on sea water or lake water.

Attention No.4: Stability Of The Boats

Besides, stability is another point of consideration. As there are waves in the ocean, a more stable boat and proper keel design are needed to overcome those rough sea water. Buoyancy and materials of a boat play a big role here.

3)    Who else is using my boats?

Beside you yourself, who else will be using the boats? It is equally important for you to consider the ability of other users(if any)to control/handle the boats.

Attention No.5: Light Weight Of The Boats

If you have children and they are using the boats too, beware of the weight of the boats. Whether they can launch the boats themselves or not has to be taken in consideration. Inflatable boats are free-and-easy boats. Inflation of the boats is easy with an air pump and the air light weight should not be a problem for children to carry.

Attention No.6: Friendly-user Handling Of The Boats

A lesser power motor boat should be chose for first time boater as lacking of experience will definitely cause difficulties in handling the boats. Just do not forget to take consideration on other user (if any) when choosing a boat.

4)    How much I afford to spend on my boats?

The budget is one of the issues here. When come to choose a boat, other than the price of the boat itself, please do not forget about the fee behind the boats. What I mean here is those extra fee such as storage, insurance, fuel & gas, trailers, repairs, lodging, setting up a tow vehicle, ski, licenses, permit and maintenance fee. It will be such an amount of money to take care of a boat.

Attention No.7: Transporting & Storing Cost Of The Boats

However, inflatable boats with the ability to deflate just save up a lot of transporting fee as you can keep the clothes stack size deflated inflatable boats in your car boot. Unlike those aluminum boats, you have to not only deal with trailers and towing machines, but you have to deal with the storage problem as well. Storing an aluminum boat definitely will cost you something.

Attention No.8: Fuel-Consuming Of The Boats

Besides the storing issue, the light weight inflatable boats need lesser power to be moved and as a result, you have just saved up pennies on fuel. Comparing with aluminum boats, a bigger HP engine is needed to move the boats in a way consuming more gas.

Attention No.9: Resale Market Of The Boats

Inflatable boats are considered economical not only because of the cheaper price of the boat itself and its attribution to save, the good residual resale price is just an add-on privilege.

Choosing aluminum boats or inflatable boats is really depends on yourself. Considering on the 'attention point' mentioned, you are very clear which kind of boats suit you most. However, I will definitely recommend inflatable boats due to the advantages inflatable boats have. The convenience and all-in-one functions that inflatable boats provide are just unbeatable.

Pick of the Day:

Salter Crusader RX Inflatable Boats

This multifunctional Salter Crusader RX inflatable boat is great for exploring the water, such as rowing to a nearby island, or moving between shore and a larger boat. Its wide, round body is easy to handle and offers ample room for goods and passengers. Install an outboard motor (sold separately) for faster speeds.

·         Medium-sized multifunctional round-nosed (bow) inflatable boat offers a wide, round body so you have ample room for passengers and goods

·         80mm all-around durable rubber strake on the tube provides extra protection

·         Top trim guard includes a safety rope

·         Built-in oarlocks and oar holder for easy rowing

·         16.2mm thick aluminum bench seat

·         One-way drain valve with plug

·         Stainless steel D-rings for convenient towing with an 8mm tow rope

·         Fibreglass-wrapped marine plywood transom comes with motor mount plates on both sides and additional PVC, rust-free screws to prevent delamination

·         Made of 0.9mm thick Mirasol PVC with 1.2mm keel and bottom

·         Aluminum floor can be used for added rigidity and durability

Inflatable Boat Basic Repair Information and Procedures

Small repairs and the addition of small accessories may be attempted by the owner if factory gluing instructions are followed closely.

Rips or holes larger than one inch in the air chambers or within two inches of a seam should be repaired with internal and external patches by a professional repair technician at a certified repair facility. A quick patch repair may solve your problem for a short period of time, but we recommend you have it redone by a professional.

We recommend that major repairs and the addition of large accessories such as oar locks, seating or towing rings be done by a professional repair technician at a certified repair facility.

If your boat is still under warranty and you are experiencing a seam failure; the wooden transom separating from the molded transom flanges or tube set; or the fabric is turning yellow and sticky, call your dealer immediately. Defective seams or sticky fabric may result in complete warranty coverage and you may receive a new boat for free or at a small prorated fee.

If you plan to attempt a small repair, please note these points closely:

• Great products to repair and protect your inflatable boat. Or consider a new boat.
• Repair kits, glue and more.
• Inflatable Boat Repair Paint
• Keel Guard Protector
• Is your old boat beyond repair?
• Buy a new one a low prices.
• Boat Covers & Stow Bags

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION FOR USING ALL GLUES AND ALL FABRICS

LOW HUMIDITY AND TEMPERATURE CONTROL

•             Relative humidity must be less than 70%, preferably as low as 40%.

•             Temperature 64° to 77°F.

Never fiddle around with these. Bond strength drops very rapidly with heat or high humidity. Take your boat indoors. Don't even think about trying to glue on the dock or near the water or in direct sunlight. Professionals use a specially built, climate controlled room, and still don't attempt to work on a rainy day.

Note: You are using a two-part contact cement. The solvents in the glue must evaporate before assembly. When ready to assemble parts, the glue must not be tacky at all to the finger. It must not have spots of whitish glaze. If so, you may have spread the glue too thick, not waited long enough between coats, or a sudden drop in temperature or gust of humid air may have occurred. Someone may have opened the door, or you may have leaned too close and breathed on it. Plan to stay in the room until finished.

GENERAL TIPS

• Mark out your patch or accessory perimeter where it will be glued on. Then use masking tape to tape off the area to avoid getting MEK or glue on other parts of your boat during the repair process. This takes a little time but is well worth it in the end as the glue is hard to get off the boat after it dries and looks very messy when it dries and goes brown from the sun.
• If using small cans (1/4 L) mix the entire can with the dose of accelerator. Inaccurate measurement will weaken the glue. Once opened the accelerator cannot be kept. Do not try to save it. The quality of your final bond depends on it.
• Apply glue with a paint or glue brush with the bristles cut short (1/2 to 3/4") so they are stiff. It must be natural hair (i.e. OK for lacquer); bound in metal not plastic; preferably with wooden or metal handle. Careful not to get glue on areas of your boat besides the repair area.
• Old glue must be completely removed -- solvent, sandpaper, scraping, grinding with a Dermal tool. Glue will not stick to old glue. Clean it off thoroughly. Be careful not to burn or melt the fabric if using a Dermal tool. Constant motion with the tool will prevent this problem.
• If your boat has ever been protected with ArmorAll® or another silicone or petroleum based product, you may have great difficulty getting a bond. Wipe the repair area well with MEK, follow the gluing instructions closely and hope for the best.
• Pinhole size leaks in most Hypalon fabric or PVC boats sometimes may be repaired simply by use of either Seam Seal or Air Seal liquids. You might be able to avoid a patch on the boat.
• To find tiny leaks, take floor boards out, inflate boat hard. Put some liquid detergent in a bucket of water and with rag or big wash brush, scrub it all over boat. Keep watch for elusive, tiny bubbles. When you find the first leak, keep looking. You might as well fix them all at the same time! Remember, the number one cause of slow leaks is a poorly seated valve. Unscrew, clean. Make sure little rubber O-rings are good. They are the cheapest repair possible.
• If patching, cut patches 1 to 2 " larger than tear in each direction and round the corners (a quarter makes a good template for the edges). Little one inch circles pasted over a pin hole won't last. Try to get the same fabric used by the manufacturer for your boat. The inside and outside surface may be different. If you can't match color, sometimes a cleverly shaped patch in contrasting color can be made to look like decoration instead of a Band-Aid. e.g. arrow, lightning bolt, even a new D ring if in right spot. Professionals often put one on each side to look like they came with the boat.
• Inflate boat to apply accessories. Deflate to patch air leaks, even if very small. Air pressure will bubble the patch before glue sets.
• Use our inflatable boat restoration paint if your boat is old looking, looks faded, is sticky or generally looks old and ugly. 

BE SAFE

• Do Not Smoke! Glues and solvents are flammable. No open flames (e.g. furnace or pilot light when working in a cellar.)
• Use in a well ventilated area. Fumes can be overwhelming. A carbon filter respirator is recommended. MEK solvent smells, but is relatively safe. It is recommended that you not use Toluene - the factories do but it is quite dangerous.
• Accelerator (small bottle) is toxic. If spilled on on your skin WASH IMMEDIATELY with soap and water. If in your eyes, IMMEDIATELY FLUSH WITH WATER for at least 2 minutes and consult a physician. (Accelerator is an isocyanate based product.)
• Always wear safety gear as recommended by the manufacturer of glue, solvent, accelerator, etc.

NOTE: These instructions are offered to assist you in home use of glues. Because of the wide variety of conditions and critical procedures, we assume no responsibility for failure of glued bonds or any consequence thereof. We always recommend repairs be done by trained professionals. If you mess it up, it's costly time to clean the fabric and rectify the problem and it can greatly exceed the cost of the original repair.