Boating and Fishing Safety Tips

A man stands up in his boat, looks around to be sure that he is alone, and urinates over the side of the boat. It’s a common occurrence and hard to believe that it’s a life-threatening act. But every year, approximately 225 Canadian men drown when they fall overboard.

The Lifesaving Society gathers statistics so it can target its public education efforts and lifesaving courses to those who are most at risk. We urge you and your family to take a course today—you’ll learn prevention strategies, self-rescue, rescue of others and basic first aid. Follow these tips to avoid becoming a statistic:

1. Choose it and use it! Always wear a lifejacket or personal flotation device (PFD)!
   Don’t just have it in the boat, pick one and wear it. The vast majority of Canadian boating victims were not wearing a lifejacket or PFD when they drowned. You can compare trying to don a lifejacket or PFD in an emergency to trying to put on your seatbelt in the middle of a car accident. Lifejackets and PFDs have come a long way. Inflatable types and a wider range of colours and styles make it easier for you to find and wear the one that’s right for you.
2. Think about it. Boat sober!
   According to the National Drowning Trends Report, 1991-2000 alcohol consumption was involved in 38 percent of all boating deaths, 44 percent of recreational power boating deaths, and 43 percent of canoeing deaths. Alcohol intensifies the effects of fatigue, sun, wind and boat motion to negatively affect balance, judgment and reaction time. Be Water Smart^®:—don’t drink and drive your boat!
3. Get carded!
   The rules have changed. You must have proof of competency. Proof of competency can take one of three forms:
• proof of having successfully completed a boating safety course in Canada prior to April 1, 1999;
• a Pleasure Craft Operator Card issued following the successful completion of an accredited test; and
• a completed rental-boat safety checklist (for power-driven rental boats, valid for the rental period).

So get trained in boating safety. Take a course or study at home, and then take the PCO test. Obtain further information on the Boat Operator Accredited Training (BOAT)™ course. It will help you to know the boating “rules of the road,” how to respond in a boating emergency, and how to operate pleasure craft safely.

4. Know before you go! Check the forecast and create a simple safety checklist.
   Avoid potential danger by taking a few minutes to make a simple checklist—What’s the weather forecast? Any local hazards? What’s the condition of the waterways? Where is it shallow? Are there any rapids? Have your maps or charts? Have your lifejackets or PFDs? First aid kit, tools and spare parts? Enough fuel? Safety equipment all working? Told someone where you’re going and when to expect you back?
5. Wear the right gear!
   Wear your lifejacket or PFD, of course, as well as good sunglasses, sunscreen and appropriate clothing. Paddles, whistles and flares are the right gear, too.
6. Drive your powerboat or PWC responsibly!
   Look before you act, stay low, drive at moderate speeds, be aware of changing weather conditions, and drive with extreme caution and proper lights after dark. Children under 16 years of age are not permitted to operate a PWC. Children under 12 years must be accompanied by an adult to operate a boat with a motor of more than 7.5 KW (10 HP). Children 12 to 15 years must be accompanied by an adult to operate a boat with a motor of more than 30 KW (40 HP).
7. Never stand up in your small powerboat, canoe or other similar watercraft.
   Numerous drowning occur when fishermen stand up to urinate over the side of a boat.
8. Get trained—take some Lifesaving courses.
   Be prepared in the event of an accident—whether your boat capsizes or you need to rescue someone else. Become aware of the dangers of cold water.
9. Don’t overload.
   Avoid capsizing by following the load restrictions of your craft. This includes not only the number of passengers, but also the weight of your gear.
10. Follow the rules of the road.
    Be courteous of others using the waterways and obey all boating rules. Be watchful of swimmers and other boaters, and always have a spotter for water-skiers and tube riders.

Source: lifesaving.ca

Caring for Your Inflatable Boat

Common Sense & Consistency Are the Keys

Thousands of years ago, the first inflatable boats, made from animal skins, were used for transportation. People used them to cross rivers, ferry goods to other locations, and move military troops. Over time, inflatable boats were adapted for recreational use as well, and for rescue operations. Today there are many types of inflatable boats and over a dozen ways they are used around the world.

Different militaries across the globe helped bring inflatable boats to the public attention, and today the government still uses inflatable boats for troop transport, special military operations, and drug and other law enforcement activities. In addition, inflatable boats are also used in search and rescue operations, fisheries patrol and security patrol. They are also used as tenders on large yachts and ships.

On the recreational side, inflatable boats can be used for diving, fishing, pleasure boating, river rafting, water skiing, and many other water activities that involve a boat. Consumers can also purchase inflatable kayaks, canoes, and sailboats.

Because there are so many different types of inflatable boats and a variety of ways they can be used, it is important to be familiar with the specific operating instructions for your particular model and situation. However, there are a few general use guidelines that apply to most, if not all, inflatable boats.

Inflating

• When inflating your raft or boat, many manufacturers recommend filling each air chamber in a clockwise pattern around the boat, just until the craft takes shape. Then work your way back around the boat filling the chambers to the pressure level indicated for that particular boat.
• If the floor of the boat is inflatable, add air until the pressure relief valve releases a small amount of air.
• Don’t overfill. A properly inflated boat should have just a bit of give.
• Be aware that air temperature causes changes in the air pressure in the inflatable chambers. Many boaters fill their inflatable boats in the morning when the air is cool. But as the temperature increases over the course of the day, the air in the tubes expands, increasing the pressure. If a tube or chamber becomes too pressurized, it can explode if struck by a sharp object. You may have to let some air out at different points throughout the day if you operate your inflatable boat or inflatable kayak in the hot sun.
• Most inflatable boats deflate simply by opening the air valves.

Standard Precautions

• Because punctures are the main concern with inflatable boats, it is important to protect if from sharp objects. Use care when transporting diving knives, spears, fishing hooks, and other objects that could puncture the skin of the inflatable boat. Watch for barnacles and sharp metal or wood when tying your boat to the dock, and avoid dragging the boat over rocks and shells when landing on a beach.
• Even dull objects such as oars, ropes, or coolers can cause abrasion and deterioration of the coating material if allowed to rub for an extended period of time.
• It also is important to rinse out your inflatable boat or inflatable kayak after each use. Sand and gravel can cause abrasion and plug air valves. If left to soak into an inflatable boat, salt water can cause the material to deteriorate.

Caring For Your InflatableBoat

• Cleaning: Armorall and other oil-based products can damage the rubber or fabric over time and prevent patches from sticking. Mild dish soap is best for cleaning your inflatable boat. There are also several cleaners designed specifically for inflatable boats.
• Storage: Because uninflated boats are more vulnerable to damage, many manufacturers recommend that you store the boat partially inflated and covered with a tarp. If this is not possible, completely deflate the boat and be sure it is dry and clean before rolling and storing in the carrying bag. If you plan to store your inflatable boat on a trailer, be sure there are no bends or kinks in the boat.
• Repairs: Sometimes, even with the best of care and safety precautions, your inflatable boat can develop a puncture or leak. Unless you have a major and obvious accident, it may be difficult to determine the location of the leak. While the boat is inflated, wipe it with soapy water and watch for bubbles to form on the surface of the boat as a result of escaping air. Don’t assume there is only one leak. Check the entire boat with soapy water to be sure before setting out on the water.

• Many manufacturers recommend that you bring your boat to a professional for larger repairs, because it can be difficult to get a good seal with a patch. However, if you have a small puncture or are in a situation where you need to make immediate repairs, follow the directions on the patch kit. Some basic tips include:
• Ensure that the surface is clean and dry before applying the patch -Be sure the adhesive is sufficiently tacky before applying the patch -Choose a patch that extends at least three inches beyond the rip in all directions
• If your inflatable boat has rough or cracked areas that are filled with tiny pinhole leaks, this is an indication that the coating on the material has aged or become damaged by sunlight, saltwater, overheating or some other type of wear and tear. While you may be able to patch some of these leaks, it is best to replace the inflatable boat if other areas show signs of wear.
• Inflatable boats, canoes, and kayaks have many advantages over traditional watercraft, however, because of their special design and materials, they can require more care and maintenance. But as this article describes, it is not difficult to care for an inflatable boat, and most problems can be avoided by using common sense and by developing a consistent routine. If properly cared for, inflatable boats can provide you with years of service and recreational fun without the expense associated with traditional watercraft.

How to Buy an Inflatable Boat

WHICH IS THE RIGHT INFLATABLE BOAT FOR YOU?

First, you need to consider how you intend to use your inflatable. This will influence the design and size of the boat that best meets your needs. Such considerations should include:

• Number of passengers and gear you will normally carry to estimate the weight capacity.
• Room needed for bulky equipment and supplies.
• What type of conditions and elements you will expose your boat to Ultra Violet (UV), etc.
• Do you intend to use the boat as a tender, sport-boat, or for fishing, diving, hunting, charter, etc.?
• Would the performance and low maintenance of a Rigid Inflatable Boat be more beneficial or the easy of Rolling and Storage of Roll Up or Collapsible needed?

Categories of Boats

Four (4) main categories of inflatable boats exist on the market:

1. Rigid Inflatables Boats (R.I.B).
2. Performance Rigid Roll Up.
3. Collapsible boat with floorboards
4. Flat-bottom boat with slatted floor and no keel (often wrongly marketed as a performance Roll-Up.

1.    The RIBs offer higher performance capability and stability as a sport boat. In comparison to traditional power boats, there are lighter in weight, allowing them to deliver higher performance with a smaller size engine. They also offer virtually maintenance free use and are very popular both as tenders and sport boats.

2.    The performance Rigid Roll Up is designed to provide ease of storage and its full-length floor allows the addition of an inflatable keel. This model can be rolled up and stored with the floor system still inside the boat. Allowing you to inflate the boat in any position or area.

3.    The Collapsible with floorboards, although often accused of fingernail breaking, offers a more rigid floor system. The floor system is typically made of wood, which requires maintenance, and assembly and disassembly time increase, because the boards must be removed every time the boat is collapsed. The boats accept more horsepower than roll ups, but less than R.I.Bs.

4.    The flat-bottom boat with a slatted floor offers easy storage and assembly, but at the price of several drawbacks! These boats are extremely difficult to stand in. In addition, they cannot have a keel and, therefore, will no track or plane, thereby greatly reducing performance, stability and enjoyment.

PVC materials are cheaper, lighter products that can be machine welded. However, they have much less resistance to UV rays and will become brittle upon contact with chemicals such as oils and gasoline. Do not be confused by fancy names given to PVC by some boat manufactures, they are all part of the PVC family of products. PVC is PVC!

We recommends Hypalon for a tough material that give extended durability.  If Hypalon® is required by Navy, Army, and Coast Guard, etc; why not by you?

Middle Layer – Polyester or Nylon?

Polyester reinforcement, although more expensive than nylon, has definite advantages. The higher resistance to stretch allows the boat to maintain a uniform shape, thus improving both performance and stability. Its high tensile strength increases its resistance to punctures and ensures that it will retain its shape for years to come under pressure, especially for the Roll Ups improving Rigid duty. Polyester and nylon reinforcement are measured in Denier or Decitex. The higher the Denier or Decitex number the stronger the material. Denier is used in the United States, while Decitex is used in countries using the metric system. However, some manufacturers are now using Decitex in their U.S. brochures, which can confused the costumer on the quality of material, the Decitex numbers are always higher than the Denier references. Please do not be confused, just remember:  1,100 Decitex approx.=1,000 Denier.

Inner Layer-Neoprene, Hypalon, or PVC?

Good Quality inflatable Boats have an inner layer of neoprene. This proven closed-cell elastomer has superior qualities for making material airtight and seams perfectly bonded. This ensures that the tubes remain airtight for a longer period of time.

Seam Construction

All Hypalon boats require a hand-gluing assembly process. Although time consuming, this process is used by all high-end inflatable boat manufacturers, and requested by commercial and military customers. We believe that hand-glued seams that are overlapped and taped are highly superior to those that are not.

Innovation in design is important for a good inflatable boat. Boat Manufacturers should constantly strive to improve the performance and reliability of boats while maintaining a superior value for the price. Certain design features are important to the customer in their search for a boat. We have outlined these features and recommend that you make the comparison.

Interior Space

The overall exterior lengths of Inflatables boats are measured tip to tip. Almost all manufacturers build boats with a long cone at the rear.  This is a cheap method of finishing off the stern of the boat.  The cone adds to the overall length without increasing buoyancy or the usable interior space of the boat and, therefore, gives a false impression of the usable capacity of a boat and value.

The Best Inflatable Boats are constructed with rounded ends and, consequently, have a shorter exterior length than their major competitors. We build our boats with rounded ends despite the additional cost because we want our tough rubbing strake to extend around and protect the stern of the boat. This shorter length eases storage on davits or dinghy racks.

Beware of Boats with points on the wrong end!

In addition, when choosing a boat, it is the interior space of the boat that is key. Some boats are more pointed than others, some include extended cone ends, and all have various widths.

Tubes

One thing is certain with tubes: bigger is better!

Larger tubes: Increase buoyancy, thus allowing higher payloads. Create more stability Provide a drier ride by keeping water out of the boat. Create more interior depth and space inside the boat.

Inflatable keel

The keels allow the boat to plain and change direction faster, while providing more directional stability and less leeway drifting.  For collapsible boats, Roll Up a keel is must to provide tracking and planning

Floors, Transoms

For fully collapsible models, floors are generally made from wood or aluminum. The wood must be marine grade.  Some wood floors are varnished. This may have a nice appearance when new, but can create more maintenance afterwards.

Good Quality Inflatable boats are made with marine grade plywood transoms and floors protected by 2 layer of 2 components epoxy barrier and then a layer of polyurethane. We use a light Grey paint to better resistance to fading under UV.

Roll Up Technology

Certain manufacturers, have models, which allow the boat to be rolled with the floor in place, and to have an inflatable keel.  These models usually have a hinged, segmented floor that combines rigidity for performance and stability with ease of handling and storage. Do not confuse these floors with slatted floors, which are not full-length floors.  Such floors cannot compare with roll up floors for rigidity, stability and performance, and do not allow for a keel. Remember with polyester reinforce fabric the tube

Other Important Features

Rubbing Strake

The rubbing strake is the tough rubber strip that goes around the boat to protect it from abrasions, and from splash & spray keeping you dry.  Make sure that this streaking is made of a thick, tough material in a light color. Dark colors attract more UV, heat, dirt, and will deteriorate faster leaving marks on other vessels.  Good Quality Inflatable boats boats have a tough, raised, light Grey non-marking strake for better protection.

Valves

These should be recessed to avoid objects catching on them.  The larger the size, the faster inflation and deflation.  Good Quality Inflatable boats recessed valves have spring-loaded diagrams to allow for one-way airflow when desired.  These valves can be easily removed for maintenance.

Towing Rings

Collapsible models should have two large D-rings attached with heavy duty material located under both sides, forward of the boat for towing with a bridle. RIBs should have an U-bolt through the fiberglass hull in the bow. Good Quality Inflatable boats have towing rings or U-bolts standard on all models.

Oars

The oars provided must be comfortable to use.  Therefore, tenders should come with oars that can be adjusted to the needs of the user and pinned oarlock system that locks the oars in place and allows for feathering of the oar blades.

Other Accessories

Handles - For transportation, handles are a great help. The boat supplier should provide one on each side and another in front. Lifelines: Make sure well placed, heavy-duty lifelines are provided.

Common questions about Inflatable boats and dinghy

Why are all the inflatable sizes odd lengths? Why not 7', 8', 9' and so on?

Most of your inflatables will come in odd sizes (i.e. 8'9", 10'1", 11'3") the reason is they use the metric system and then when converted over to standard it comes out to odd measurements.  The prefix of the model will be a 270 or 300 or 310 and this is simply your metric measurement.  The 270 model would be a 2.70 meter boat and that would convert to roughly 8'10". 

What's the right size inflatable for me?

As a rule you should want the inflatable to be at least 2 feet shorter than the width of your boat.  Make sure to look at the capacity plate on the inflatable, you want to make sure its short enough that it does not hang over the sides of your big boat and you can get around it, but long enough that it safely holds all of your guests.  All inflatables are not the same, you can find smaller boats with larger capacities if they are built better.

What is the difference in floors?

There are 4 different floor types that are common amongst all brands.  The rollup floor, the piece assembled hard floor, the airdeck inflatable floor, the fiberglass floor. 

The rollup floor is a slatted wood floor it is light weight and easy to rollup, this model is good for the person who is constantly rolling it up and putting it into a bag.  It is easy to carry and stow.  
The con is it has no real rigidity.  Great on portability but no so great on performance

The sport/assembled solid floor:  This boat comes with 3-5 boards that get put together.  Assembly is very difficult when alone.  The pros are that you are getting a solid floor boat that can also be folded up and stowed.  Try to stay away from wood itself as they swell in the saltwater and it makes assembly very difficult and the weight go up.  Try to go with fiberglass pieces or aluminum (aluminum doesn't do as well in saltwater).  This boat can also be carried in two seperate packages keeping the weight down when bagged up.  The con is it is heavy and hard to assemble alone.

The airdeck/inflatable air floor:  This is in my opinion the best rollup you can buy.  it is lightweight and easy to assemble.  Make sure you get one that holds over 10 psi or else its too weak and will cause major plaining problems and a very poor ride.  if you do get one that holds 11 or 12 psi air pressure, it is light weight, easy to rollup and stow, you can do it all by yourself.  The cons are some less pressure air floors are a poor performance, some air floors are easily punctured.  If you get a solid floor this is the best roll up in my opinion

The RIB: this stands for rigid inflatable boat, it comes in either a single deck where you have a V-bottom and you are standing directly on the V-bottom when in the boat (these give you the rigid bottom ride but cut down on some of the weight) or the dual floor where you have a V-bottom and you stand on a flat floor and most of the time thry foam fill in between the two layers.  The pros are the best riding/towing inflatable you will find is a rigid.  The cons are they are heavy, can not be stowed away, and can chip the swim platform of your big boat.

What is the difference between materials?

There are two major materials in the inflatable game.  You have PVC and Hypalon.  Ask 100 people and you will get 100 different views.  Hypalon was the original material.  All of your avon's and achilles are still made with Hypalon.  Hypalon is better against UV rays and prolonged sun exposure. Hypalon will last 20-30 years. PVC is a stronger material for punctures and tears.  However when PVC first hit the market it would only last 5-6 years on its own.  Many companies like Mercury put addatives into there PVC to get them to last 15-18 years.  Hypalon is a longer lasting material PVC is stronger.  If you can get a PVC boat with a built in addative and put a cover on it, you have a longer lasting stronger boat.  This is great for the North.  If you are going to be in the bahamas year round, Hypalon's the answer.




Inflatable buying tips:  
1-a good warranty backed by a well known company nationwide.  
2-a light weight boat with high capacity.  
3-a high psi airfloor is important. 
4-a one way drain valve that does not require you to put your hand into the water. 
5-a reinforced v-keel so you can ride up on the beach. 
6-oars mounted off to sides (often oars are mounted in the dead center and this makes it tough to sit on the tubes) 
7-fast plaining, some models adapt there end cones to plain off faster, this will make you enjoy your inflatable more. 
8-a bowed up nose, this will help you stay dry (all inflatables are wet but some less than others) it will also help when you are towing it.

Heavy Duty Sport Boats by Salter Watercraft

Heavy Duty Sport Boats by Salter Watercraft



High quality and affordable, the Salter Sport boat is available in 3 sizes, the 9ft 270, 11ft 320, and 12ft 360. All which have 5 extra rub strips along the bottom for more protection while coming close to shore or when beaching the vessel. She can also be dressed with aluminum, plywood or a high pressure air floor, All floors offer solid rides, great in and out stability. We also added solid light weight aluminum seats, We increased the thickness and durability of the boat material to 1.2 mm. You can be rest assured you will get years of safe and reliable boating with a Salter Sport Boat.

Salter Crusader RX 320 & RX 360 Inflatable Boats

Salter Crusader RX 320 & RX 360 Inflatable Boats

Salter Crusader RX 320

Available with three floor options as below:

1. Salter Crusader RX 320 Aluminum floor.
2. Salter Crusader RX 320 Airmat floor.
3. Salter Crusader RX 320 Fiber form (honeycomb floor).

Salter Crusader RX 360

Available with three floor options as below:

1. Salter Crusader RX 360 Aluminum floor.
2. Salter Crusader RX 360 Airmat floor.
3. Salter Crusader RX 360 Fiber form (honeycomb floor).

Description:

Salter Crusader RX Boat is a round-nose (bow) inflatable boat. With its wider round body, the boat is roomier for passengers and goods. Improved buoyancy, stability and operation, this kind of boat is multifunctional. Not only is the inflated structure easy to be handled, but also compatible with a marine engine to achieve the speed. Salter Crusader RX Boat is made by 0.9 mm thickness Mirasol PVC, the keel and bottom is 1.2 mm, Can be operated with Aluminum floor, Air Mat or Fiber form (honeycomb floor). The Transom is made of marine plywood and is polyurethane laid.

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Boat Accessories by Salter Watercraft

Air Mat Floor 270-320 (9ft & 11ft)

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Air Mat Floor 360-(12ft)

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Air Pressure Gauge

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Air Pump (Manual)

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Air Valve Set

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Aluminum Floor 270-320-(9ft & 11ft)

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Aluminum Floor 360-(12ft)

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Anchor Pulley

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Bimini Top

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Boat Handles

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Boat Oars

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Boat Seat (aluminum)

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Bow Bag

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Carry Bag for Inflatable Boat

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D-Rings

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Deck & Dock Carpeting
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Dock Buster

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Drain Plug

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H-R Valve Adapter

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Inflatable Boat Cover

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Inflatable Seats (thwarts)

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Inflation Valve O-Ring

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Inside Motor Plate

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Launch Wheels (Stainless Steel)

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Life Jacket (100lbs to 185lbs)
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Motor Bracket (for rafts)

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Oar Holders

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Oar Lock Black

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Oar Lock White

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Outside Motor Plate

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Plywood Floor 270-320-(9ft & 11ft)

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Plywood Floor 360-(12ft)

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PVC-Glue

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Repair Kit

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Rod Holder

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Seat Bag Set (zipper)

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Seat Support Hooks (plastic)

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Seat Support Straps

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Slat Flooring